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[美洲旅游好文]【哈瓦那·古巴】【Havana, Cuba】English after Mandarin 意大利艺术评论家Philippe Daver...that only belongs to Cuba. 我的文章出处链接:如果您喜欢这篇故事,可以在这里找到更多相关故事。无国界旅行故事
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旧 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-03-24, 08:12
【哈瓦那·古巴】【Havana, Cuba】
English after Mandarin


意大利艺术评论家Philippe Daverio说「真正艺术包括不同方位的解读」,需要具有「仿真两可性或是不可捉摸性」。我觉得哈瓦那就是这样一个独特的城市。作为一个真正的艺术城市,哈瓦那真实体现了那种不可捉摸的面向。
Philippe Daverio, an Italian art critic, says real art includes interpretations from different perspectives and should be ambiguous or unpredictable. I think Havana, as a true city of art, genuinely reflects that unpredictability.






对于古巴的第一印象来自于社会主义风格的哈瓦那机场。外观有棱有角,活像是随时会翻身战斗的变形金刚。这点又跟注重建筑与环境与人文呼应的新未来主义建筑不谋而合,就像Zaha Hadid在广州建造的那两只蟾蜍剧院一样。这么多的想像与那种所谓的艺术的仿真两可性恰恰重合。
My first impression of Cuba came from the Havana airport with that strong socialistic flavor. The angular exterior of the terminal looks exactly like one of those Transformer robots who might spring to life and battle at any second. This coincides with the concept of neo-futurism buildings which stresses the link between buildings and their surroundings. A great example is the angular toad-like Guangzhou Opera House. All that imagination accords with the so-called ambiguity of art.


内部红色的证照查验关让人感觉热情却又搭配共产主义的不协调。飞机上座位旁边的古巴先生嘴里不时哼着歌曲,机场接驳车和接机出租车上也有动感音乐。我感到困惑。
Inside the terminal is the red immigration cubicles with that yellow tint, which gives a sense of incongruity combining passion with seemingly cold communism. That reminds me of the Cuban guy next to me on the plane who was humming songs all the time. Music can also be found on the boarding gate shuttle as well as the taxi I rode to downtown Havana. I was perplexed.


我问接机的司机英文哪学来的。他说学校里的外来语文教育中有英文的选项,但不是很受重视。司机又说欧巴马时代古巴开始转型经济准备起飞。可惜目前川普打压古巴,连房地产都低迷。从路上年轻一代的新潮穿着,我感觉到古巴已不再是旧时代的古巴了。对于古巴一切都还在摸索中。
I asked the cab driver where he learned his English. He replied that English was one of the foreign language options in school, but English was not considered important. He then started to talked about how Obama helped boost Cuba’s economy with the loosened US-Cuban tension. It was unfortunate since Trump swore in and everything had been beaten down including the travel and real estate industries. I could still spot the change from young people’s fashionable outfits. It felt like Cuba was not the old Cuba that I learned from the travel guide. Everything about Cuba was yet to be explored.


哈瓦那绝不是说英文天堂。从找住宿开始,我那卑微的西班牙文就被迫彻彻底底地运转起来。还好事先下载了估狗翻译里的西文选项,加上我确实请过家教老师学习基础西文发音,这样勉强能与当地人沟通一下。我也怀疑凭我这样三脚猫的西文能有什么本事去解读这样一个谜一般的国度?
By all means, Havana is no heaven for English speakers. From the moment I decided to find a casa/guest house on my own, my puny Spanish vocabulary was forced to work hard. (Yeah, I only know about a couple of hundred words. Shame on me!) The good thing is that I downloaded Spanish on my Google Translate in advance. Plus I hired a private tutor to learn Spanish phonics. I somehow managed to communicate with the locals. Sometimes, I doubted how I was going to open up this mysterious nation with my lousy Spanish.
原帖地址: 背包客栈自助游论坛 https://www.bbkz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10420951


入住后第一件事情就是凭着以往旅行经验惯例出门找超市。哪知那样的作法在这特立独行的国度完全不适用。在哈瓦那旧城区(Habana Vieja)的民宅区里没有所谓的招牌。这意味着一个社区中大多数人彼此相互认识,才能知道谁家在哪里提供什么样的服务。可怜如我,为了找瓶装水,在附近用破烂的西文「Donde esta el agua」问路。经过三个人指了不同的方向后,终于找到一位热心的先生直接带我去一个不起眼的窗口买水。饶是这样我也花了将近30分钟才顺利取得珍贵的饮用水资源。

The first thing I did after I checked into a casa was to follow my routine as a traveler and find a supermarket. Who would have known that this idea completely did not work here. In some residential areas of Old Havana, shop signs simply do not exist. This probably means most people in the community know each other, and thus are aware of where to go to find services they need without shop signs. That translated into my predicament as I tried to find some bottled water in the neighborhood. I literally asked for directions with my broken Spanish, Donde esta el agua? Following three kind passersby’s help in three different directions, I found a nice guy who took me to an inconspicuous window where I finally obtained two very precious bottles of water, which took me 30 minutes for this entire water-getting process.

在找水的途中我看到了面包店只批量生产吐司和小圆面包、窄门里只卖烟和酒的店家、有简单桌椅的餐厅,以及一目了然的理发店。这一切都没有资本主义的招牌来包装社区的基本运作。也因为对于这里的无知,我将注意力集中在斑驳街道与颓倾楼房之间发出的声响上。锅里油炸的声音、收音机里的音乐、鸡啼、车子里的动感贝斯、路人跟我说hola、先生亲吻太太脸颊打波的声响、吉娃娃的嗷叫,以及路人在街头讲公共电话的声音—我走在街道的中央聆听哈瓦那的脉动。当然我所在的这条街绝对不会是观光客川流不息的Obispo步行街。总之,这里的许多事物颠覆了我对一个城市的认知。
En route to finding water, I saw a bakery producing only toast and rolls in batch, a shop selling only cigarettes and liquors, a restaurant with simple tables and chairs, and a barbershop that you can see it all at a glance. Everything here ran basically without the packaging of capitalistic shop signs. Because of my ignorance of Cuba, I started to shift my attention to the sounds made between the mottled streets and faded buildings. Deep frying noises from a pan, music from the radio, a rooster’s crowing, pounding bass from a car stereo, hola from a passerby, smackers from a husband to his wife, a chihuahua’s barking, and someone talking on a public phone—I was walking in the middle of a small street listening to the heart beats of Old Havana. Where I was standing is surely not the tourist-flooded Obispo pedestrian zone. Regardless, my perception about what a city ought to be was totally overthrown by the things I experienced initially.

对于古巴的第一印象是新奇且难以用一般逻辑去理解的。我觉得接下来的旅程我应该放下对于一个国家既定的预期。也许这样才能领会只属于古巴的不可捉摸的艺术。
My first impression about Cuba was novel yet hard to understand with the common sense. I felt I needed to let go of my expectations for the country. Perhaps, that way I could grasp a touch of the unpredictable art that only belongs to Cuba.

我的文章出处链接:
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=320...2392648954&ref=m_notif






原帖地址: 背包客栈自助游论坛 https://www.bbkz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10420951










如果您喜欢这篇故事,可以在这里找到更多相关故事。
https://m.facebook.com/travelsavvy2/?locale2=zh_TW

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旧 回复: 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-04-02, 17:46
文章赞!请问您是乘坐哪一个航空呢?
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旧 回复: 回复: 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-04-03, 06:33
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作者: chrissywong (原帖)
文章赞!请问您是乘坐哪一个航空呢?
你好~
我先搭机去马里兰州待了几天再搭达美航空经亚特兰大去哈瓦那。
如果你想减少转机的话,可以直飞LA, SF和芝加哥。
其中尤以芝加哥长荣机票最便宜。
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旧 回复: 回复: 回复: 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-04-03, 07:00
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作者: 旅人管管 (原帖)
你好~
我先搭机去马里兰州待了几天再搭达美航空经亚特兰大去哈瓦那。
如果你想减少转机的话,可以直飞LA, SF和芝加哥。
其中尤以芝加哥长荣机票最便宜。
您好,谢谢回复。我的驴友大多数是马来西亚护照,在美国转机应该不方便 会再找其它方便路线
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旧 回复: 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-04-03, 09:39
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作者: chrissywong (原帖)
您好,谢谢回复。我的驴友大多数是马来西亚护照,在美国转机应该不方便 会再找其它方便路线
那加拿大呢?因为在古巴封城之前,加拿大观光客人数占第一名。每天都有班机过去。另外也可以试试看阿酋和土耳其航空。
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旧 回复: 回复: 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-04-03, 09:42
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作者: 旅人管管 (原帖)
那加拿大呢?因为在古巴封城之前,加拿大观光客人数占第一名。每天都有班机过去。另外也可以试试看阿酋和土耳其航空。
If I not mostaken, Malaysian need the Canadian visa too for the transit ‍♀️ We used to used the route from Europe side
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旧 回复: 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-04-03, 09:51
Mistaken i mean, we used to use the Europe route for the transit
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旧 回复: 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-04-03, 14:34
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作者: chrissywong (原帖)
If I not mostaken, Malaysian need the Canadian visa too for the transit ‍♀️ We used to used the route from Europe side
So I guess Turkish Airlines or Emirates might be a good choice. But make sure you get the tourist card first. It’s like their visa.
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旧 回复: 回复: 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-04-03, 14:36
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So I guess Turkish Airlines or Emirates might be a good choice. But make sure you get the tourist card first. It’s like their visa.
Sure! Will need to study more before visiting. Thanks for the precious info
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旧 回复: 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-04-03, 14:39
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Sure! Will need to study more before visiting. Thanks for the precious info
Perhaps I can write an article about things you must do before the trip.
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旧 回复: 回复: 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-04-03, 14:49
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Perhaps I can write an article about things you must do before the trip.
Ya, looking forward to it
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旧 回复: 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-04-04, 23:33
谢谢你的分享
看完让我更想去了
只是要等疫情消退才能继续计划了
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旧 回复: 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-04-04, 23:44
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谢谢你的分享
看完让我更想去了
只是要等疫情消退才能继续计划了
这时候最适合酝酿出国的情绪。读一读旅游文章。再推荐我其他的古巴文章给妳。
https://m.facebook.com/travelsavvy2
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旧 回复: 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-04-04, 23:54
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作者: 旅人管管 (原帖)
这时候最适合酝酿出国的情绪。读一读旅游文章。再推荐我其他的古巴文章给妳。
https://m.facebook.com/travelsavvy2
好喔 谢谢你
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