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东京美食甜点之旅2008(最终回) - Michelin 2008 Tokyo III + Sweets

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michelin
#1
旧 2008-11-15, 07:47
图文博客(更新中): http://www.wretch.cc/blog/h5874029
This is our concluding trip to Tokyo Michelin 2008. We will wait and see if there are any major changes to its new guide 2009 (due in late Nov), and decide whether it is worthwhile to revisit Tokyo, amid expensive Japanese currency. Relatively cheaper Euro dollar may redirect our attention to Europe when we are planning our next trip in 2009.
东京十月行,我们的2008年度米其林美食之旅最终回,加上试吃比较多的甜点们,供参考。

As usual, we tried the following 3-starred restaurants: 我们先试了以下三颗星的餐厅:

鮨 水谷 Sushi Mizutani 03-3573-5258 银座8-2-10 银座诚和シルバービル B1F 摄影—禁止
Michelin 3 Stars Tabelog 4.42 (Taste)
This famous Edomae sushi restaurant is found in a basement opposite the Ginza Nikko Hotel, not far from Shinbashi station (Ginza side). There are only 10 counter seats, and daytime and evening prices are the same - ¥15,000 cash per person, for 16 kan (1 kan = 1 nigiri) plus Maki. The rice in particular is premixed with red vinegar and salt, which complementing the intensity and sublime flavours of the nigiri. The order of sushi that we had that day: Hirame (fluke), Kohada (gizzard shad), Sumiika (cuttlefish), Toro (tuna), Chu-toro, O-toro, Akakai (ark shell), Hamaguri (clam), Mirugai (trough shell), Aji (horse mackerel), Kurumaebi (prawn), Sayori (halfbeak), Awabi (abalone), Uni (sea urchin), Anago (saltwater eel), and Kanpyo-maki (gourd roll). In comparison with other sushi restaurants, Mizutani’s rice is more sticky and has more flavor. The temperature of the rice is consistently warm. Unlike majority of sushi restaurants, most of Mizutani’s neta (ingredients) are in room temperature. The combined effect had us relishing the full depth of flavor in Edomae sushi. Overall, it is one of the best sushi restaurants that we have been to. With a fame of the Chef (his master is Chef Jiro – 3 starred Michelin), and top quality seafood and unique taste of the rice, we reckon the price is justifiable. We definitely recommend it if you can get a booking.
虽然用餐气氛有点严肃,但不致令人感到不自在。整体来说,鱼肉或醋饭的温度吃起来很一致,虽然并不太喜欢吃白肉鱼,但却觉得水谷的白肉鱼握得很好吃,一开始的几贯白肉鱼感觉芥茉好像用得多一点点,虽然有一点刺鼻但却很顺口,而且感觉很开胃。以一万五千日币的价格,可以享受到这样的水准,应该算是很值得。

Losier 03-3571-6050 银座7-5-5
Michelin 3 Stars Tabelog 4.05 (taste)
Next to the House of Shiseido (its owner company), the French restaurant, L’Osier is situated in the expensive Ginza district. Our dinner was so highly anticipated because we were turned down twice before. This time we made the booking well in advance, 3 months prior, so that we won’t get miss out again. The dinner costs us ¥25,000 per person and the overall experience is excellent. The only dish replaced is foie gras for langoustine & caviar ossetra. Our main dish is beef steak and it’s so juicy and tender, almost comparable to the best teppanyaki steak we had at Mouriya in Kobe. The desserts are just delightful to look at, and the taste is one of the best. By the time we finished the dinner, we are so full and glad we did take the advice of the manager not to go for ¥35,000 dinner, otherwise we’d have problem walking out of there. L’Osier is a restaurant that we’d like to go back again if we have the chance.
是此行旅行中,最期待的餐厅之一了。话说真是等了好久才吃到,第一次是为了去资生堂博物馆,知道旁边有间餐厅,但却不知它名气那么大,第二次则是去日本的时候,碰巧遇到了米其林发行才知道是怎么一回事,但正抢手的时候,可是有𫓨也吃不到的,第三次,在我们又开始规划某次日本行的约前一个月半或两个月,本以为总该妥当了吧,抱歉!Fully booked!所以为了吃遍所有想吃的餐厅,发狠铁了心的计划了这次的日本行,三个月前就打去订,这该订到了吧,这才成了手中囊物啊。服务自是没话说(12%的服务税啊),菜色令人满意,甜点的阵丈很有气势,选择性也很多,用餐感觉很轻松。

Joel Robuchon 03-5424-1347 目黒区三田1-13-1
Michelin 3 Stars Tabelog 4.28 (taste)
This contemporary French restaurant is on the second floor of a three-story replica of an 18th-century French chateau in the center of Yebizu Garden Place. There is only one word to describe the inside of the restaurant, sumptuousness, as its walls are decorated with Swarovski crystal glass and a large Baccarat glass chandelier hangs from the middle of the ceiling. We selected the highly anticipated 18-dish dinner course (all in small portion) which costs ¥36,000 per person. From oscietre caviar, beef, to crab and langoustine ravioli with truffle, every material used is top of the line. Overall taste is so sophisticated and one can easily identify it ‘s the unique style of Robuchon’s cuisine, as there is a slight resemblance to his 2-star restaurant, L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, in Roppongi. Although Joel Robuchon has just arrived in town, he was in Roppongi and scheduled to come to Ebisu the next day as the manager regretfully informed us. Never mind that we missed him this time, perhaps we will try his restaurant in Paris next time. At the end, the manager gave us a loaf of orange flavor bread as a present.
原本已经吃过六本木的Latelier,其实就没打算要去Joel Robuchon再吃,但看过好几篇网友或格友写的文章都对本店相当满意,甚至是日本的Tabelog的排名都很高,也是因为这次排的餐厅有变动,所以干脆就加入这间,加上也对他们的晚上菜色很好奇。总的来说,应该就是很Joel Robuchon的风格,想不出有何字眼来形容,好吃不在话下,摆盘也随每道菜的意思而变化,算是有意思,用餐感觉也很愉快,装潢更是富丽堂皇,但甜点的选择和Losier相比起来是少了一点,不过吃这种事就是很主观,只能说Joel Robuchon的风格不太投我喜好。

Quintessence 03-5791-3711 港区白金台5-4-7 BARBIZON25 1F 摄影—禁止
Michelin 3 Stars Tabelog 4.26 (Taste)
The contemporary French restaurant, Quintessence (the 5th element), is about 5 mins walk from the nearest Shirokanedai station. It’s not too hard to find, but it is certainly the hardest one to reserve a seat. At least 50 calls were attempted before I could secure a booking, which tells you how popular this restaurant is. It only offers “carte blanche” menu (Chef’s selected menu) at a fixed price (dinner is ¥15,750 each person). All 15 dishes are nothing like we had before. The lamb from Hokaido in particular is roasted for 3 hours in low temperature (1 min in the oven, and 5 min out of the oven continuously – I feel so sorry for the guy who is designated to perform this lengthy process) and the taste is so tender and virtually there is no typical mutton smell. When we paid our bill and ready to walk out the door, Chef Kishida came to the reception to say goodbye. Of course, we grabbed him for photos and are so surprised that he is not only talented but so young (around 30+ only, and spent 3 years of his apprenticeship at 3-star L’Astrance in Paris). This is a restaurant definitely worth of coming back again.
其实并没有很期待来这,不知道是不是因为抱着这种自暴自弃的心态,这次吃完所有的餐厅后,我最想最想再去和最满意的餐厅居然是”Q”,是个非常意外的收获。这里是没有菜单的,但主厨会根据你是第几次来而有不同的菜色,主要是因为希望保有食材的新鲜和美味,在用餐之前也会让客人阅读一份像菜单似的精美本子,内容大概就是告诉客人为什么没有菜单,和他们的诉求等等…
但在这里是不能拍照的,好像是说以前总是造成一些问题,所以主厨就下了这么个决定。主厨使用很多的日本食材,对于主厨”岸田周三”的手法的搭配非常满意,印象比较深刻的是主菜的羊排,是放进烤箱里一分钟再拿出五分钟,同样的动作要弄三个小时,这在里用餐,可以深刻的感受主厨的认真努力,对食材的珍惜和对客人的尊重。最后不免俗的也请求当日菜单和签名啦,准备要走的时候,服务人员通知都已准备好,主厨也在门口等待,非常兴奋可以见到传说中”年轻的主厨”,结果从小门中冒出是一个要是你说他是个学徒任谁都会相信的男子,妈啊~能做出这么好吃的料理的人,就是他吗?!真的好年轻,虽然里面的服务人员说当他们知道得到米其林三颗星的时候,真的非常震惊,但这位年轻的主厨靠着自已的才华确实已经站上世界的顶端。顺道一提,他们真的非常难订,不断的重播五十几次才终于打了进去,也算是皇天不负苦心人啊。


Then, we have tried the following 2-starred restaurants: 我们先试了以下二颗星的餐厅:

Pierre Gagnaire 03-5466-6800 南青山5-3-2 南青山スクウェア 4F
Michelin 2 Stars Tabelog 4.03 (Taste)
This PG restaurant in south of Aoyama, Tokyo is found on the 4th floor of a stylish building next to another even flashy all glassed Prada building. Technically speaking, it was a 3 starred lunch that we had, because Chef Gagnaire took over the kitchen that day. The ¥12,000 per person lunch special was the only offer on the menu. His well-known innovative cooking style had us amazed. Firstly, every dish presented was like an art. Then, he chose food materials that you wouldn’t normally put together, yet the taste was so good and well-balanced. We especially like the main dish – imported French pigeon, the best pigeon that we ever tasted. Without hesitation, he autographed the menu and took a picture with us. He was both friendly and charismatic. We asked the manager what does that “TT” symbol mean with curiosity? He smiled and told us that it is a symbol of a table. Obviously. Having celebrity like Chef Gagnaire to cook for us another time, the possibility would be at his PG in Paris.
大约是在行前的两个月预约,就已经快被订光,可见非常抢手,无论如何总也是订到了。
这些餐厅都需要最后确认,所以一一请信用卡公司再确认,就行前的前一天,突然接到信用卡公司来电说,菜单价格会变成一万两千元日币,因为有所更改,不知道我们还要不要去?原因是Pierre Gagnaire本人在10/20-10/25这段时间会到日本,而且将由他本人亲自作菜,真是非常走运碰上这事,连想都不用想,当然要吃,吃到他本人煮的不等同于吃到了三星料理吗,而且还可以看到他本人
,给这次的行程加分很多啊!去之前有看过有人说服务不太好或是不太好吃什么的,心里总是有点怪怪的,但因为可以见到PG本人实在是太兴奋,这件事暂且不管。那天到了想说先去一下厕所,一转身一位高大满头白发还戴着铁发圈的老人就不知从何处冒出来,咦…他不就是Pierre Gagnaire吗?我都还没准备好耶,就这么地看见他本人,不管怎样还是很高兴啦,其实服务不错,不知是不是老板亲临,总是皮要绷紧一点啦… 最期待的当然就是料理啦,只有开胃菜、前菜、鱼、肉,然后就是甜点、茶,算是不多,但是总算是见识到他的创意,把不同的味道综合的很完美,还有他那有名的甜点,不只吃得很乐也看得很高兴。吃到主菜的时候,他总算是来到我们的座位,打完招乎后,签名是一定要的,当然也顺便请求拍照啦。其实对于他们那个TT的标志一直很好奇,到底是什么意思啊?难道大家都知道吗?反正不管三七二十一问了服务人员,其实就是餐桌的意思而已啦。


Aimee Vibert 03-5216-8585 千代田区二番町14-1
Michelin 2 Stars Tabelog 3.91 (Taste)
The outside of Aimee Vibert is an elegant stone wall mansion, where it is situated in between Honzomon and Kojimachi subway stations. We picked this restaurant because it is very popular and rated reasonably high in Tabelog. We wanted to try their lunch initially, but were told that there was only one dinner night available, even though we started the booking 10 weeks prior. Upon arrival, the staff will take you to a waiting room on the second floor full of expensive antiques for welcoming drink while choosing the menu. Then you will be brought to the gorgeous dinning area with an open veranda, where you can look out to its French style garden with a heart shaped lawn. We had ¥10,500 per person dinner course and selected lobster and imported duck for our main dishes. The overall taste is a bit strong and mature, however, the quality is of high standards. This restaurant is like Ristorante Aso (2 Star Italian restaurant), good for impress your partner on a special occasion. The lunch menu is reasonably priced, but only if you could made the reservation.
外观就像一位小城堡一样,座落在民宅中,显得有点与众不同。一进门就被领到二楼的waiting room,会问你要不要先喝东西,也先直接点了菜,过了一会儿再才被领到正式的餐桌上,环境非常优美,外面还有法式庭园,从二楼看下去看有一个心型的草坪。相较之下,他们的菜味道醎了一点,但还不至于像大阪的Stella Maris这么重,是可接受的范围,品质有一定的水准,只是并没有让人印象特别深刻的菜。

菊乃井 Kikunoi 03-3568-6055 港区赤坂6-13-8
Michelin 2 Stars Tabelog 4.06 (Taste)
With the recent influence of Japanese TV series, Osen, we thought we should include one traditional Japanese kaiseki in this trip. This Japanese ryotei (and kappo) is the Tokyo branch of Kikunoi in Kyoto, where is located in Akasaka. The set menu dinner course we had is ¥15,000 per person, and the foods are of high standards including use of large amount of matsutake (pine mushroom), and other mushrooms like shiitake & maitake. The ingredients are sourced with highest quality in mind, even the water is transported from Kyoto. In its open kitchen, we can see grill and stoves use only charcoal, where most of our wonderful foods come from. The owner/chef Yoshihiro Murata is the 3rd generation, whom he later on come out to greet every guest. He has TV food show and a regular writer to several good food magazines. Overall, the foods and dinning experience are excellent, and it is more relaxing than we were in Hamadaya (3 starred Michelin).
一入座,女内将亲切的服务就让人轻松了起来,在座位上就可以看到开放式的厨房,食物大多是蒸的、碳烤的、或是生鱼片等等,应该是刚好碰到松茸的季节,从一开始到最后一道的饭,都加了很多松茸,他们本来就是京料理,但连用的水也都是从京都运来。料理很美味也很养生,因为几乎算是无油,虽然吃得很饱但却不觉得胀,吃不完的松茸饭也问说要不要带走可以帮我们打包,所以隔天又有美味的松茸饭当早餐。

さわ田 Sawada 03-3571-4711 银座5-9-19
Michelin 2 Stars Tabelog 4.29 (taste)
This restaurant is located on the 3rd floor of a small building, next to the Belgium chocolate shop Del Rey. It is one of the restaurants that you have to book well in advance, however, we are the only two customers when we turned up for lunch that day. The lunch costs us around ¥23,000 for 20 kan per person, in which consist of: Makogarei (plaice), Sumiika, Akagai, Kanpachimae (yellowtail), Tairagai (razor clam), Chutoro, Chutoro, Otoro, Kohada, Yariika (spear squid), Kurumaebi, Kisu (sand smelt), Buri, Marugai, Katsuo – smoked, Buri toro – grilled, Uni, Anago – salt & sauce, and Tamago. ). At the end, the fruit dessert, Houzuki (gooseberry) is my wife’s favor. With regard to Sawada’s (his master is Chef Mizutani – 3 starred Michelin) rice, it is also premixed with red vinegar and salt. The taste is therefore similar to Mizutani’s, but less sticky. The temperature of the rice is consistently warm, but not as warm as his Master’s. Most of the neta on the nigiri are in room temperature but cooler than Mizutani’s. Although there are some similarities in between them, Sawada did demonstrated with his own combination and techniques. There is no question that it is one of the best sushi restaurants that we have been to, with a lot more different seafood offered.
在一间比利时巧克力专卖店Del Rey的隔壁大楼,到的时候门是锁起来的,顿时有点害怕,但不久里面传出声音说请等一下,这才放心。一进门,只有我们两个,旁边是连椅子都没摆,觉得有点怪…是怎么回事啊,但语言不通,无法得知啦。反正还是吃比较重要,在这里吃到了一些在别间店都没吃过的鱼类,白肉鱼的口感吃起来很不同,醋饭很顺口,别于水谷,很有自已的风格。最后给的醋栗非常好吃,好吃归好吃,但价格并不是很平易近人。

New Michelin 2 Stars (2009)
鮨さいとう Sushi Saito 03-3589-4412 港区赤坂1-9-15 自転车会馆 1F
Michelin 1 Star (2008) Tabelog 4.38 (taste)
Sushi Saito with only 6 counter seats is located in Nihon Jitensha Kaikan building opposite the US Embassy in Tameike-Sanno. The lunch cost us about ¥9,000 per person for 14 kan plus Maki & Tamago. The young Chef Saito (his master is Chef Kanesaka- 2 starred Michelin) speaks reasonable English and is quite friendly and approachable. The tuna in particular is allowed to age for more than 2 weeks in the ice room; a sharp eye is kept on the aging process, and adjustments are made to the thickness of the slice. The order of sushi we had that day: Hirame, Buri (yellow tail), Toro, Chu-toro, O-toro, Sumiika, BabyEbi, Kurumaebi, Aji, Katsuo (bonito), Kohada, Ikura (salmon roe), Uni, Anago – Salt & Sauce, Tekka-maki (tuna roll), Tamago. In comparison with other sushi restaurants, Sushi Saito’s rice is consistently warm, more firmer and has a bit of sour taste. Unlike other sushi restaurants, the temperature of neta is depending on the type of fish used: tuna is slightly below room temperature, white-fleshed Fish is lower than Tuna, and shining silver fish is in lowest temperature. As result, the harmonious balance of shari (rice), wasabi, neta, and soy sauce is achieved here. Overall, it is one of the exceptional sushi restaurants that we have been to, although we can still taste a bit of similarity from Sushi Kanesaka.
其实Saito是二颗星银座 鮨Kanesaka的徒弟,怪不得在吃的时候,总觉得有点Kanesaka的影子,Saito的鲔鱼是特别放置在冰箱至少两周才会拿来使用,所以的确鲔鱼油脂的纹路和在其他间的看起来并不同,口感也不一样,和醋饭相当搭,师傅本人很年轻也很亲切,在这里用餐很舒服很轻松。


Lastly, we have tried the following 1-starred restaurants: 我们先试了以下一颗星的餐厅:

La Bombance 03-5439-4010 港区西麻布2-25-24 B1F
Michelin 1 Star Tabelog 4.27 (taste)
As the restaurant only offers dinner, it is a bit hard to find at night as it is located on the basement floor of an ordinary looking building. The place is quite cosy, however, its counter only seats eight people plus a table for four. We chose La Bombance because we always like to experience something different, such as incorporating western ingredients with Japanese style cooking, and it’s got very high rating on the Tabelog. The only set course menu is ¥11,000 per person and the portions are more than adequate. Most of dishes are surprisingly good including desserts, especially the white coffee dessert is exceptional. The only downsides for us are it only opens for dinner, and it is a bit far from the nearest subway station.
原帖地址: 背包客栈自助游论坛 https://www.bbkz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=135204
属于现代日本料理,里面非常的小,连厕所的门都好小。一进去就可以看到主厨就像服务生正在服务客人,感觉非常的亲切,虽然小,但气氛装潢音乐都让人非常放松,他的料理里面,可以看见西式的起士或是鹅肝等等,作的却是”日本料理”哦,但却融合的很不错,价格比较起来也稍微便宜一点,是第一次尝试到现代日本料理,很新鲜的体验。

竹叶亭 银座店 Chikuyotei 03-3571-0677 中央区银座5-8-3
Michelin 1 Star Tabelog 3.29 (taste) Shominchelin 3Stars
Chikuyotei has 2 restaurants in Ginza. The one near Mitsukoshi Department store is a 3-star Shominchelin restaurant. (Tokyo restaurant guide to the ordinary people). We picked this restaurant because we couldn’t go to Disney Sea that day due to heavy rain and we have to come up with something different and require no booking in advance. We ordered Unagi-Don A & B (bigger portion) which cost ¥1,650 and ¥2,000, respectively. The tasty unagi is plump and thick, and the sauce is made from secrete recipe. We both reckon that Chikuyotei is perfect for diners who are budget-conscious and also looking for quality Japanese food, and most importantly, wish to spend 2 hours on other activities such as shopping rather than on lunch alone.
竹叶亭并不需要预约,所以才临时的决定去吃,我们就只点了鳗鱼盖饭,因为鱼有种鲜味或腥味让我吃多了容易恶心,所以常常无法吃多。但这里的鳗鱼基本的就已经很大碗,直到吃完都不觉得腻,酱汁味道也非常刚好,加上就在银座大钟十字路口的路边,应该很适合想吃美食但又不想花太多钱的旅人。

祇园下河原レストランよねむら Yonemura 03-5537-6699 银座6-8-7 交询ビル 4F
Michelin 1 Star Tabelog 4.0 (taste)
Yonemura is located on the 4th floor of a department store building in Ginza, which is quite easy to find. We picked this restaurant because we wanted to try something different, like contemporary Japanese cuisine, and it is rated reasonably high on Tabelog. The lunch that we had is ¥6,000 set course per person. There is ¥9,000 set course including Shabu Shabu/hot pot, but we thought we should reserve some space in our tummy since we are going for dinner at Robuchon later. The lunch is indeed contemporary ranging from foie gras to curry rice. Every dish is amazingly taste good, in fact, outstanding. With ¥6,000 a head for the good food and service that we had, we are definitely coming back again.
在银座的一间百货的四楼,和La Bombance一样是现代日本料理,在来这之前已经吃过La Bombance,对Yonemura算是很期待。在这里,各种不同的食物,可以说比La Bombance混得更凶,但每样都很好吃。譬如像一开始就可以来个绿茶配上法国面包,或是也使用意大利面,最后的饭后饭还可以选吃咖哩饭。感觉什么都有,什么都不奇怪。所以应该可以说,如果你不知道吃什么,如果你又什么都想吃,可以考虑一下Yonemura,这里很有趣。

In addition, we have tried the following popular sushi restaurants以下是其他间的寿司名店:

新桥鹤八 (しんばしつるはち)ShinBashiRuhachi 03-3591-1551 港区新桥2-16-1 ニュー新桥ビル2F
Tabelog 3.98
ShinbashiRuhachi (SBRH) is an Edomae sushi restaurant located on the 2nd floor of a white building full of massage parlors, next to JR Shinbashi station. We picked this sushi restaurant because it is mentioned in a Tokyo’s famous sushi restaurant guide and also rated quite high on Tabelog. There is no set course menu in this restaurant so every customer tells Chef what he/she likes from the seafood list on the wall. We ordered in total of 11 kan which costed us around ¥9,000 cash per person. The order of sushi we had that evening: Hirame, Sumiika, Toro, Anago, Uni, Chutoro, Kohada, Aji, Akagai, Tekka-maki, and Kurakake (Tamago nigiri). In comparison with other sushi restaurants, RBRH’s rice is consistently warm, plain - almost has no flavor, and much firmer than most of sushi restaurants that we have been to. Since the restaurant has no air condition, there are all kinds of smells, and whether that is the cause for the inconsistent temperature in neta is not known. Overall, it is a slightly above averaged sushi restaurant and we feel a bit doubtful on why it is rated so high on Tabelog among Japanese?!
大概是这次所有餐厅中吃得压力最大的了,店里有个年轻人会说英文而且讲得也还不错,但他是在里面的厨房,真是为了我们这种很少会出现在他们店里的外国人,被叫了出来,师傅感觉满严肃的,收银机前面又站了一位小姐,好像只负责算钱而已,虽然知道她并没有一直盯着客人,但有个人一直站在那感觉有点怪。至于握寿司,这里是你想吃什么就点什么,没有像其他地方有菜单或是师傅会决定今天要做什么客人就吃什么。铁火卷很好吃,在日本Tabelog里还有人称是绝品,但其他的倒是觉得还好,醋饭感觉有点不好下咽。玉子烧感觉吸取了冰箱里很多的味道,如果没有那些味道,应该也是不错,我想这里还是适合会讲日文或是喜欢新桥鹤八风格的人来。

弁天山美家古寿司 総本店 Bentenyama-Miyako Zushi 03-3844-0034 台东区浅草2-1-16
Tabelog 3.73 Shominchelin 3Stars
Bentenyama-Miyako Zushi (BMZ) is only two streets away from the popular tourist attraction, Asakusa Temple. This zushi (old sushi) restaurant is quite famous because it is about 140 years old. Its traditional Edomae technique is only pass on to son only, and the current Chef is 5th generation. It is also a 3-star Shominchelin restaurant - Tokyo restaurant guide to the ordinary people. There is no problem communicating with the old Chef in English. He even has set course menu in English. We ordered 10 kan set course first and added 2 extra kan later, which costed us around ¥5,000 per person. The order of sushi we had that day: Hirame, Madai (red sea bream), Akagai, Katsuo, Kohada, Kurumaebi, Boiled Ika, Steamed Anago, Toro, Kurakake, and 2 extra kan: Chutoro & Otoro. In comparison with other sushi restaurants, BMZ’s rice is consistently warm, sticky (less than Sushi Mizutani), and a bit firm. The temperature of neta, on the other hand, is consistently cooler. Overall, it is a restaurant with traditional sushi technique, outstanding taste, quality seafood at very very reasonable price. We will definitely go back again next time in Tokyo.
原帖地址: 背包客栈自助游论坛 https://www.bbkz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=135204
位于浅草寺不远的几条街上,现在的师傅已经是第五代,已经有一百四十年的历史,也被选为庶民米其林的三星寿司店。师傅虽然已经有年纪但英文还不错呢,而且也有英文菜单,我们点了十贯的套餐,而且还加点两贯,平均一个人大约五千元日币,而且也非常好吃,以这样的价格来说,真的很划算,如果有机会再去浅草,一定会再去吃。

第三春美鮨 Daisan Harumi Sushi 03-3501-4622 港区新桥1-17-7
Tabelog 4.09
Daisan Harumi Sushi (DH) is also very close to JR Shinbashi Station, but it’s not easy to find because it is hiding in a small alley. The Chef Nagayama with over 40 years of Edomae sushi experience is also the author of his popular book “Sushi”. Everyday he posts a list of the origin of all the seafood & ingredients (including rice, wasabi and even soy sauce) acquired and used, on the wall behind the counter, so that customers can appreciate the quality and transparency from the Chef. We ordered 14 kan set course plus tamago, which costed us around ¥10,000 per person. The order of sushi we had that day: Sumiika, Kawahagi (Filefish & its liver), Katsuo, Toro, Chu-toro, Kohada, Saba (mackerel), Uni, Kurumaebi, Ikura, Katsuo – light grill, Anago – steamed w/sauce, Chu-toro, Prawn head - fried, Tekka-maki, Tamago. In comparison with other sushi restaurants, DH’s rice is consistently less warmer, slightly firmer, and taste plain. The temperature of neta is always on the low side. Overall, it is a restaurant with above average taste with quality and fresh seafood at reasonable price.
离JR新桥车站也很近,不过藏在小巷里要仔细的找一下。所用的食材和产地都写得清清楚楚陈列在店外供客人参考,入座以后,也把一样的内容复印成小份的放在客人面前,师傅英文也很好,捏好的寿司,旁边的助手还拿了一本寿司书里面有英文的鱼类名称,让客人知道是什么,每次介绍鱼类,师傅都会说他用的是best的哦,真的都非常的好吃,料好实在。吃到一半,师傅问说怎么会找到这?就说是从寿司名店的书看来的,就说”famous”,自已还讲了一次,感觉就是一个”爽” 。买单的时候,看见收银机旁有一排刚刚看的寿司书,也顺便就买了一本,翻开后面看到作者不就是师傅他吗?然后问说可不可以请他签名,结果每一本他老人家都已经签好了呢,然后再附送一张很大张的手写菜单(可能因为是观光客),感觉师傅很想红,我想他本来就是名人了啦,只是感觉寿司师傅的年纪大多都满大的,对于这个事业还是很有动力,真是敬佩。

甜点篇
Finally, we have again tried out many different desserts including revisiting some of the well-known establishments. Most of them are really good, and of course, some are only mediocre, according to our own rating scale.
基本上这些我们选择的洋、和菓子都算是好吃的,但好像大家都比较偏好甜一点的蛋糕(例如似乎满多人都觉得Mt. Clair很好吃,但对我而言却真的太甜),所以觉得以下的大部份菓子们应该都能满足大家,这样我所谓的甜度刚好的甜点,大家就能做比较准确的考量而选择自已喜欢的甜点。以下包括再吃或新吃的甜点自已的虚设分数表:

4.7-5.0 不可抗拒的好吃 Simply irresistible
4.4-4.6 非常好吃 Excellent
4.0-4.3 比预期的好 Better than expected
3.6-3.9 不错 Good
3.5 below 普普 Average


Eating in the shop 内用:
Hidemi Sugino 再访 京桥3-6-17 10:00~19:00 MonClose 日本Tabelog 全国甜点第1名 4.33 (Taste) 摄影—禁止
This popular dessert shop is found in a little ally in between Kyobashi & Ginza (towards Ginza), which is still ranked number one in our hearts after the second visit. There are some rules of the shop, if we understand it correctly: the left hand side (about 5 kinds of dessert) of the cold-display can only be enjoyed in the shop, while the right hand side can be boxed and takeaway. Of course, we ordered 4 cakes on the left hand side, thinking come back again next time to buy the right hand side ones for takeaway. But unfortunately it closes on every second & fourth Tue of a month, when we joyously come back on one Tue (the day we are leaving Japan). Oh dammmmmmn…. Below are 4 cakes we tried:
Paradise Raspberry Yogurt 4.8 Exotique Banana w/cocona powder 4.8Sicilie Kiwi w/raspberry & black current 4.7 La Harmanie Cherry with nuts 4.8
去的那天还下了大雨,但依然还是有排队的人潮,有时候东西第一次觉得好吃,最怕的就是第二次再吃,总会觉得好像不再那么好吃了,但再吃还是一样那么的好吃,他们的蛋糕总是有很多层次,但别于像AOKI那般复杂的层次,Sugino的显得比较是单纯易懂的美味,还是心中的第一名蛋糕。

Laduree, Ginza 银座4-6-16 10:00~11:30(月~土) Tabelog 3.6
A famous old French dessert maker, Laduree, has just joined the intense dessert market in Ginza. It is on the 2nd floor of Mistukoshi department store with a separate side entrance. The place is cozy and window seats are preferred at night so you may appreciate the night-view in Ginza. Its macron is less sweeter than Pierre Herme, but the overall taste we think Pierre Hermes is slightly superior. The tea is good, and so are chocolate, and rose & raspberry sorbets. It opens till late so any night owls or lovers can enjoy late desserts, but the costs are not cheap.
从网上得知在银座新开的甜点店,去之前一直很期待,我们点了两款sorbet,很够味,macaron比起Pierre Herme的,就没那么甜,所以就看个人喜好了,装潢是很美啦,很是贵妇下午茶店的感觉,只是看得出来才开幕没多久,座椅上就有一些脏脏的痕迹,不像是才开幕几个月的感觉,可见刚开幕的人潮很多,但吃到一半的时候,竟然有厨房的欧巴桑拿着东西从中穿越过去,感觉有点怪,而且还有点吵,不过他们开到晚上十一点半,这点倒是很方便。
Chocolate sorbet 4.4 Rose & raspberry sorbet 4.3 Macaron 4.1

Henri Charpentier, Ginza 银座2-8-20 10:00~21:00 Tabelog 3.62
This multi-award French dessert maker, Henri Charpentier, (its company also owns C3 in Japan), has a sizeable retail and coffee shop in North of Ginza. The inside of the shop is quite colorful and designed with French elements. The restrooms are hidden behind the fake bookcase wall next to staircase, which is quite unique. We found that its macron is less sweeter and cheaper than Pierre Herme & Laduree, and the taste is above average (NB. Taste is depends on personal preference), and therefore represent value. We had the following during our afternoon tea:
Pondre tea 4.3 Classis raspberry 4.3 Creame au Carmel pudding 4.2Gateau Fromage aux Myrtiles cheese 4.4 Macaron 4.3

一进去是贩售外带的地方,楼下才是café,装潢很现代优雅的感觉,蛋糕也满棒的。这里的macaron算起来比PH或是Laduree便宜一点,但味道也相当不错。

Neuhaus, Ginza 银座2-8-2 10:00~20:00(月~土) Tabelog 3.55
The famous Belgium chocolate maker, Neuhaus, has a little shop (on the same street to Henri Charpentier) with limited seats in Ginaz. Its smooth tasting cold chocolate drink, in both Orange and Original flavors will satisfy any chocolate addicts, such as me. 就在HC的同一条街上的转角处,我们点了橘子口味和原味的巧克力饮料,喝起来浓浓的巧克力很顺口而且甜度很好。 4.5

Mikimoto, Ginza 银座2-4-12 Tabelog 3.59
Sitting on the 3rd floor of famous Japanese pearl maker, Mikimoto building (not far from Quil-fait-bon), you will find this boutique coffee shop. Both interior and exterior of the building are delightful to look at, especially the retractable light that goes up and down next to the staircase. Its signature dessert Pearl and Mango Pudding are very very good.
甜点是真的满好吃的,但价格倒是小贵了一些。 Pearl 4.5 Mango Pudding 芒果 4.4

Ori Higashiya 西麻布3-16-28 11:00-8:00 Tabelog 3.41
Next to Greece Embassy in Azabu. The shop has a quality and modern look, which service traditional Japanese tea. Its wagasi (Japanese desserts) is exceptional but expensive. 4.5
是间和菓子店,但装潢应该算是现代简约日式的感觉,满特别的。

Quil-fait-bon再访 银座2-4-5 11:00~21:00 Tabelog 3.9 黄金传说2007日本最好吃甜点第2名
Our second visit to this famous French dessert maker. Its combination of fresh fruits and delicious tarts is still our favor. A must visit place. 是第二次再吃,还是最喜欢他们那种类似千层派皮的塔了。
Mangor芒果 4.5 Persimmon Chocolate 柿子 4.3

Toraya 虎屋菓寮, Midtown Tabelog 3.63
We only tried the ice cold mocha which is really good and wanted to try their dessert but we were still quite full after lunch. This will be on our top list next time we visit Japan again.
其实只是闲晃进去喝了冰抹茶而已,抹茶味很够,喜欢甜的人也有糖浆给加。

La Soufflé 西麻布3-13-10 12:00~22:00(L.O) Tabelog 4.3
This soufflé specialize shop in Azabu is not easy to find. But we will definitely come back again after we sample the best soufflé we have ever had (slightly better than Toshi Yoroizuka). Price is reasonable but it is a bit far though.
舒芙蕾专卖店,不只有甜的还有各种醎口味的舒芙蕾,例如有鹅肝舒芙蕾,还有香槟口味的,而且size也不会太大,比Toshi的甜一点点,但很绵密,价钱还可,只是远了一点。 4.6

茶寮 都路里 再访 汐留 黄金传说2007日本最好吃甜点第15名
Our second visit to this Kyoto style Japanese dessert shop in Shio-dome. This time we found it quite sweet but it is still delicious. We would prefer 京はやしや (Kyo Hayashiya) though. 4.0 还是觉得满好吃的。

Dessert Take-away外带:
A Tes Souhaits 吉祥寺东町3-8-8 11:00~19:00 日本Tabelog全国甜点第2名 4.27 (Taste)
As it is listed as second place right after Sugino on Tabelog (also appear on numerous dessert books), we head off to this highly anticipated popular dessert shop in Nishi-Ogikubo (JR Sobu Line). The shop was packed even when we arrived at around 3pm. There are no seats so we decided to takeaway our orders without further delay on our pre-planned dinner. The selection is far more than Sugino’s. The overall taste of A Tes is only a little bit behind Sugino. Definitely another 3 stars dessert maker. Below are the 4 cakes we tried (wish I have a bigger stomach so I can try more):
Orangerie 4.7 Tarte Chiboust 4.7 Acidule passionfruit & mango w/cream 4.6
Mont-blanc chestnut w/cream. Less sweeter than Angelina 4.6
在Tabelog的排名和Sugino一直不相上下。A Tes蛋糕通常都是一个口味,不像有些蛋糕里会加很多味道,属於单纯好吃的味道,本来每家店的风格都不同,还是要自已吃过才知道比较满意哪种风格的,虽然他们的蛋糕也很好吃,但是真的有够远的,光是走去再走回来就花了有一个小时吧…

Zuckerbacheriei Rayanuma ツッカベッカライカヤヌマ 赤坂1-4-5 11:00~18:00 Tabelog 4.07
The shop is located in Tameike-Sanno, not far from US Embassy. Just remember to look for Austrian flags in front of the shop because it is not easy to find. The chefs are awarded in Austria and their expensive desserts are quite popular among Japanese. We also wanted to try Austrian jam (famous in the world) but we have to give up the idea due to the customs regulation where we come from. All desserts are takeaway only. Below are 2 dessert that we tried:
ザッハトルテ Chocolate 4.5 Jahreszeiten - Apple pie 4.2因为是奥地利式蛋糕,觉得很特别而前去,不过里面的甜点看起来倒是没有很漂亮的外表,买的其中一个小小的巧克力蛋糕,有一点甜,但味道很特别,算是很好吃的。

うさぎや 本店 Usagiya 日本桥1-2-19 9:30-6:00 Tabelog 4.06 黄金传说2007日本最好吃甜点第11名
Always wanted to try Dorayaki 铜锣烧from an well-known maker. This one is quite popular and the taste is very nice.
外皮很软但很有弹性,红豆馅也很好吃,也满大的。 4.3

満愿堂 浅草オレンジ通店 (まんがんどう)Mangando 浅草1-21-5 10:00~20:00 Tabelog 3.84
Japanese Yogan. Not bad. 芋羊羮 3.6 只是进去试吃了一下,觉得不是很特别就没买了。

おいもやさん兴伸 浅草伝法院通り店 Oimoyasan 浅草1-39-9 [土] 10:00~19:00 Tabelog 3.66
Thought the sweet potato coated with thick sugar sauce was going to be really sweet, but in fact it wasn’t and taste really good.
大学芋很好吃,看起来觉得一定很甜,可是味道很刚好。 4.3

九重 (ここのえ)Agemanju 浅草2-3-1 9:00~19:00 Tabelog 3.24
扬げ馒Mocha. OK 3.6 几乎是大家都在买,虽然是炸馒头,不过不会很油腻。

Mochicream 再访 International Airport Terminal 2 Tabelog 3.35 黄金传说2007日本最好吃甜点第25名
As usual, have to buy some to bring home, because these are our favor. We bought different flavors this time:
Sakura 4.2 Greentea 4.2 Raspberry 4.2 Double Mango 4.4就像大福,但有很多口味可以选择还不错

Pierre Marcolini 银座5-5-8 11:00~20:00 Tabelog 3.97
Earl Gray & Pierre Marco Chocolate . Really nice. 作法和其他间的巧克力有点不同,还不错 4.4

Del Rey 银座 5-9-19 Tabelog 3.93
Another famous Belgium chocolate maker. Bought 2 signature Antwerp Hands Caraque Milk & Dark. Should try its café shop in Omotesando next time. 比利时巧克力,也很棒 4.3

Mon Chou Chou 银座三越店 Tabelog 3.77
Reported on TV so we went to have it look the next day. We bought the basic flavor to (the other flavors all sold out) to bring home. Taste above average. 有原味的奶油口味和栗子口味,奶油很好吃一点都不腻口。 4.3

Angelina 再访 三越日本桥本店 Tabelog 3.57 黄金传说2007日本最好吃甜点第3名
Mont blanc in pumpkin flavor. Really good. 应景的南瓜Mont Blanc很好吃 4.4

Wabisa 三越日本桥本店 Tabelog 3.0
Mocha pudding. Not too sweet. Much better than expected. 抹茶布丁,味道比较淡,适合不嗜甜的人。 4.0

Le TAO 南小樽 Tabelog 3.82
Jersey Milk Pudding. Bought one at the Hokaido Foods Show at Mistukoshi Department Store. Very very nice.
刚好去浅草的时候碰上松屋的北海道美食展,很好吃 4.3

Dalloyau 再访 银座 2-6-16 Tabelog 3.82
Bought a macaron just want to compare it to Pierre Herme (PH), Laduree, Henri Charpentier (HC), Joel Robuchon (JR), and L’osier. We think Dalloyau is pretty average when compare to all the others. PH has multiple-layer tasting effect but it is the sweetest of all. Laduree is above average but it’s expensive. JR and L’osier are all very good but not easily accessible like the others. HC is more friendly in pricing and at the same time, it’s definitely comparable to all the other well-known makers. In short, we value HC in both pricing and taste. 3.8
如果跟这些吃过的小圆饼比起(PH, Laduree, HC, JR, and L’osier),Dalloyau显得有点普通,PH4.3的层次口感很棒,但就是很甜,价格也不便宜,Laduree4.1就不那么甜,但也是满贵的。JR4.3或Losier4.1都很不错,但除非去餐厅,不然取得不是很容易,不过JR有面包店应该买得到,HC4.3就属于经济实惠型的,满好吃的,价格比起来也便宜一点。

福砂屋 再访 银座三越店 Tabelog 3.29 黄金传说2006日本最好吃甜点第15名
As usual, need to get one to bring home. This time we go for Size 1.0, and still not big enough…… Still kicking myself.
每次买回家了,都是觉得不够吃… 4.3

镰仓五郎 银座三越店 Tabelog 3.29
First time and bought a pack of 6花子小猪in two different flavors. They look really really cute and taste very very nice. 很可爱,味道也不错 3.9

たねや Taneya 银座三越店 Tabelog 3.28
First time try this type of dessert and brought 6 rectangular天平 最中home. One of the best. It has just added to our list of must buy dessert to bring home. 4.5
通常买那种包装好的甜点,吃起来都没有看起来好吃,但第一次吃的时候,很惊讶的觉得最中的皮好香,中间的红豆麻糬羊羹也很好吃,而且皮和羊羹是分开包装,很好保存,很适合带回国。


关于其他2008米其林餐厅信息请参考以下链接
http://www.bbkz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49886 Michelin 2008 Tokyo I + Sweets
滨田家 Hamadaya, L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Sant Pau, Gordon Ramsay at Conrad

http://www.bbkz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101738 Michelin 2008 Tokyo II + Sweets
小十Koju, 神田Kanda, Ristorante Aso, 鮨 かねさかKanesaka, Cuisine[s] Michel TROISGROS, 湖月Kogetsu, 久兵卫 银座本店Kyubey


Disclaimer: The above published ratings are derived directly from their original publications or websites. However, readers should always refer to the original content for the accuracy of the information. Authors’ comments and ratings are based on personal experience & preferences, and therefore, to be used as a general guide only. Readers should expect wide-ranging dinning experiences. Happy Dining.


图片顺序:
古寿司弁天家(寿司屋)
Atess(Cafe)
Pierre Gagnaire(现代法国)
鮨 水谷(寿司屋)
L'osier(法国料理)
Joel Robuchon(现代法国)
Quintessence(现代法国)
Pierre Gagnaire(现代法国)
Amiee vibert(法国料理)/ Sawada(寿司屋)
鮨 Saito(寿司屋)/ 菊乃井(京料理)
La Bombance/ Yonemura(现代日本料理)
竹叶亭(鳗饭)/第三春美鮨(寿司屋)
新桥鹤八(寿司屋)
La Souffle(Cafe)
Henri Charpenter(Cafe)
Laduree(Cafe)
Mikimoto(Cafe)/ Nehaus(Chocolate)
Ori (茶寮)
虎屋(茶寮)
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此帖于 2009-12-17 06:49 被 michelin 编辑。
感谢 3
13593 次查看
AIEAT
#2
旧 2008-11-26, 10:51
感谢分享.很有用的信息